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Don't Replace Torn Drywall PDF Print E-mail
Written by Mary Kay Hansen   

FIX IT! 

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Most people replace their drywall when it looks like this, wasting time and money...not to mention the mess it makes!  I repaired the walls in this room, painted, and then did a stripe around the whole room.  My customer was really happy she didn't have to replace all the walls.  She had stripped wallpaper off the walls and it caused this damage, because the wallpaper installer didn't use a primer on the walls.

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This is what it can look like when you just simply resurface the walls. 

It's as easy as 1-2-3...here's how:

  • Score all the loose drywall paper around the edges with a sharp utility knife blade, and then pull the paper off.  This gives the top drywall paper a clean edge, so it doesn't stick out.
  • Wearing a proper mask and protective gloves, and goggles, apply a "damaged drywall" sealer with a roller or brush, depending on how big your damaged surface is.  You can use Guardz or Draw Tite.  Guardz by Zinsser is the one that is easiest to find, however, if you can buy the Draw Tite brand (no run) in your area, it is easier to work with.  The Guardz is almost like water so it slashes around more.
  • Get a bucket of mud.  You can get Durabond, or Easy Sand if you want to do the job all in one day, because these two products dry quickly.  But, if you're not in a hurry, I recommend using the pre-mixed drywall mud because you don't have to mix it with water and it has a much longer working time.
  • Use both 12" and  6" drywall knives, and preferably a mud pan.  You can get all of these supplies at your local home center.
  • Using the 6" knife, scoop out a glob of drywall mud and start spreading it on the wall, sort of like icing a cake.  Use the 12" knife and spread it out as smoothly and as evenly as you can. 
  • Use smaller putty knives to work around smaller areas.  You can use each knife to scrape the mud off the other one to keep the mud in the middle.  This is important, because as the mud works it way to the edges of the knife, this is when you get heavy line marks of mud.  It's always good to have a bucket of water handy to dip your knives in.  However, scrape them clean first.  This makes the mud easier to work with.
·         (I remember my first job doing this...I felt like Lucy Ricardo...the walls looked almost like stucco when I got done, but then I sanded them and whalla, I couldn't believe they were so smooth, like new walls.  So, I know anyone can do it!)
  • Let each coat dry thoroughly.  You will know it is dry when all the mud is the same shade of color.  It will take about 3 coats of mudding.
  • Sand all the walls until they are smooth.  I recommend using a vacuum sander to keep the dust down.  It is a really cool attachment for your wet and dry vacuum.  You buy sanding screens for it and it really works great.  I also like this better than using just a regular sand paper because it vacuums the dust away, so you can see the wall surface better and know if there are any imperfections that need a little more mudding.
  • Make sure you seal the walls before painting.  You can use the torn drywall sealer you applied earlier, or any good primer made for new drywall.

Hey, check out the Bladeater® holster I invented. It has a built-in blade snapper. Snaps and eats segmented utility knife blades using only one hand. Keeps new and used blades safely contained and off the floor. 
 

 

 

 

 
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